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Playing with Ghosts...Football Stadiums of Argentina

30 images Created 10 Jan 2011

Jonathan Wilson

jonawils@gmail.com



There is something poignant about an empty football stadium, as though
a trace of all the emotions that have ever been experienced there
lingers, ghosts of goals past. In a breeze across a deserted terrace
comes an echo of a last-minute winner; the thucking of a rope against
a flag-pole recalls the staccato claps that start a chant; a startled
crow evokes the howl as a penalty is missed. And in a city like Buenos
Aires, where the stadiums have a faded grandeur, that feeling is
particularly intense.

This is a nation whose history is told by its stadia, and whose stadia
are acutely aware of that history. At Huracan’s Estadio Tomas Adolfo
Duco in the Parque Patricios neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, where the
art deco towers make the main stand appear from the distance like an
ancient cruise-liner, the history is painted on the walls in the names
of former greats and a – brief – list of past titles won. From one of
the rickety executive boxes at the Bombonera, the home of Boca
Juniors, a banner hangs, counting upwards from 180; every time Martin
Palermo scores, it is pulled back in and a cross is placed through
another number, charting his progress first to and then beyond the
club record set by Pancho Varallo in the 1930s.

Buenos Aires often feels like it wishes it still was the 1930s, when
it was still a new thrusting capital asserting its independence after
the days of the informal empire. That surely is why the tango, a dance
popularised in the milonga clubs of the era, remains so popular, why
there are still more theatres in the city than there are cinemas. And
it was in that time, as the stadiums sprang up and radio reported the
games to hundreds of thousands of listeners, that Argentinian football
enjoyed its golden age, the love of individuality and self-expression
– as countless observers, from the Uruguayan poet and political writer
Eduardo Galeano to the anthropologist Eduardo Archetti have pointed
out – a reflection of the same porteno spirit as the milonga.

Some aspects seem barely to have changed since those glory days. Boca
aside, it’s still possible to buy tickets on the day of the game, to
turn up push your money through a hole in the wall and decide between
the populares, the ends that throb with colour and noise, where space
is left behind the goals for the barra, the ultra groups, to take
their places a couple of minutes after kick-off, and the more sedate
platea. Men still huddle around the choripan stalls, a beer in one
hand, roll stuffed with spicy sausage in the other.

And of course that tells its own story, for in the crumbling grounds,
the graffitied walls that haven’t been properly painted in decades and
the uncomfortable concrete seats, is evidence of Argentina’s economic
decline, a tumble so sharp that the best players don’t just desert
their league for the glamorous leagues of Spain, Italy and England,
but also for eastern Europe and most painfully, Brazil.
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  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..A mural of Argentina's most famous footballer, Diego Maradona, on a wall in La Boca region of Buenos Aires with the stadium of the regions famous football team, Boca Juniors, La Bombonera, in the distance. Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    Clayton_Stadiums_01.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The ticket windows at The Estadio Gigante de Arroyito, the home of Rosario Central. The stadium was originally opened in 1929 and remodeled to concrete in three stages, the first in 1957, the second in 1963 and the third in 1968..The stadium was remodeled in 1974-78 in preparation for the 1978 World Cup. It has capacity for 41,654 spectators.
    Clayton_Stadiums_02.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Estadio Tomás Adolfo Ducó, the home of Club Atlético Huracán, known simply as Huracán. The club are situated in the Parque Patricios neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina.  The stadium was opened 11 September 1949 and has a capacity of  48,314.
    Clayton_Stadiums_03.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Old concrete seating at the Estadio Brigadier General Estanislao Lopez, the home of Club Atlético Colón, commonly known as Colón de Santa Fe or just Colón is a football team from Santa Fe, Argentina. The stadium was opened in 9 July 1946 and has a capacity of 33,548.
    Clayton_Stadiums_04.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Giant advertising products sit pitchside at Estadio Monumental Antonio Vespucio Liberti, otherwise know as El Monumental,  situated in Nuñez, Buenos Aires and is the home of one of Argentina's most famous clubs, Club Atlético River Plate. The stadium was opened 25 May 1938 and has a capacity of 57.921.
    Clayton_Stadiums_05.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere.<br />
<br />
An image of Maradona sits behind stacks of chairs and food signs in the cafeteria at Estadio Marcelo Bielsa, Newell's Old Boys' multi-use stadium in Rosario, Argentina. The stadium was built in 1911 and has a capacity of 38,095.
    Clayton_Stadiums_06.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere.<br />
<br />
Seats are reflected in a plastic panel separating the standing and seating area's of Argentina's most famous stadium Estadio Alberto J. Armando, otherwise know as La Bombonera, home of Club Atlético Boca Juniors  based in the La Boca neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. The ground was opened May 25, 1940 and has a capacity of 49,000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_07.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Club Atlético Excursionistas, know as Excursio are a football team based in the Belgrano district of Buenos Aires in Argentina. They currently play in the Primera C Metropolitana. Founded  1 February 1910 the small La Pampa ground has a capacity of 8000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_08.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The swimming pool at Newell's Old Boys' multi-use stadium in Rosario, Argentina. The stadium was built in 1911 and has a capacity of 38,095.
    Clayton_Stadiums_09.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..A mural on the wall of the Estadio Brigadier General Estanislao Lopez, the home of Club Atlético Colón, commonly known as Colón de Santa Fe or just Colón is a football team from Santa Fe, Argentina. The stadium was opened in 9 July 1946 and has a capacity of 33,548.
    Clayton_Stadiums_10.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The main stand of Estadio Arquitecto Ricardo Etcheverry Stadium in Buenos Aires, Argentina, sits behind the grounds walled perimeter.  The ground is the home of once famous club Ferro Carril Oeste who now play in the Primera B Nacional., Founded on July 28, 1904 by 95 railway workers from the Buenos Aires Western Railway. The ground was opened  2 January 1905 and has a crowd capacity of 24,442.
    Clayton_Stadiums_11.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Exit signs at the  Estadio Arquitecto Ricardo Etcheverry Stadium in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The ground is the home of once famous club Ferro Carril Oeste who now play in the Primera B Nacional., Founded on July 28, 1904 by 95 railway workers from the Buenos Aires Western Railway. The ground was opened  2 January 1905 and has a crowd capacity of 24,442.
    Clayton_Stadiums_12.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The standing area at Club Atlético Excursionistas, know as Excursio, a football team based in the Belgrano district of Buenos Aires in Argentina. They currently play in the Primera C Metropolitana. Founded  1 February 1910 the small La Pampa ground has a capacity of 8000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_13.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Argentina's most famous stadium Estadio Alberto J. Armando, otherwise know as La Bombonera, home of Club Atlético Boca Juniors  based in the La Boca neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. The ground was opened May 25, 1940 and has a capacity of 49,000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_14.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The Estadio Presidente Juan Domingo Perón is a stadium located in Avellaneda, Argentina, a suburb of Buenos Aires. It is the home of Racing Club. The Stadium was opened September 3, 1950 having a capacity of more than 100,000 people but now parts of the ground are closed to spectators and it's capacity is now 51,389.
    Clayton_Stadiums_16.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Advertising on a wall at the Estadio Brigadier General Estanislao Lopez, the home of Club Atlético Colón, commonly known as Colón de Santa Fe or just Colón is a football team from Santa Fe, Argentina. The stadium was opened in 9 July 1946 and has a capacity of 33,548.
    Clayton_Stadiums_15.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Argentina's most famous stadium Estadio Alberto J. Armando, otherwise know as La Bombonera, home of Club Atlético Boca Juniors  based in the La Boca neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. The ground was opened May 25, 1940 and has a capacity of 49,000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_18.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..A corner flag at Club Atlético Excursionistas, know as Excursio, a football team based in the Belgrano district of Buenos Aires in Argentina. They currently play in the Primera C Metropolitana. Founded  1 February 1910 the small La Pampa ground has a capacity of 8000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_17.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The Maradona stand at Newell's Old Boys' multi-use stadium in Rosario, Argentina. The stadium was built in 1911 and has a capacity of 38,095.
    Clayton_Stadiums_20.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Estadio Tomás Adolfo Ducó, the home of Club Atlético Huracán, known simply as Huracán. The club are situated in the Parque Patricios neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina.  The stadium was opened 11 September 1949 and has a capacity of  48,314.
    Clayton_Stadiums_19.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..The 'executive' old concrete seating at the Estadio Brigadier General Estanislao Lopez, the home of Club Atlético Colón, commonly known as Colón de Santa Fe or just Colón is a football team from Santa Fe, Argentina. The stadium was opened in 9 July 1946 and has a capacity of 33,548.
    Clayton_Stadiums_21.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..A statue of Maradona in the souvenir shops outside Argentina's most famous stadium Estadio Alberto J. Armando, otherwise know as La Bombonera, home of Club Atlético Boca Juniors  based in the La Boca neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. The ground was opened May 25, 1940 and has a capacity of 49,000.
    Clayton_Stadiums_22.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..A wall at The Estadio Gigante de Arroyito, the home of Rosario Central. The stadium was originally opened in 1929 and remodeled to concrete in three stages, the first in 1957, the second in 1963 and the third in 1968..The stadium was remodeled in 1974-78 in preparation for the 1978 World Cup. It has capacity for 41,654 spectators.
    Clayton_Stadiums_23.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Concrete seating at Estadio Tomás Adolfo Ducó, the home of Club Atlético Huracán, known simply as Huracán. The club are situated in the Parque Patricios neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina.  The stadium was opened 11 September 1949 and has a capacity of  48,314.
    Clayton_Stadiums_24.TIF
  • Playing with Ghosts... Football Stadiums of Argentina..Argentina, one of the powerhouses of World Football is steeped in history and tradition, so too are the countries stadiums. Many were built in the early part of the 1900's and maintain an incredible unique atmosphere of their own. Empty stadiums terraces sing to the observer, holding onto the fans voices from match days past when Argentina's fans show a passion for the game and their clubs which is second to none. The historic stadiums have a voice of their own and a unique atmosphere. ..Estadio Tomás Adolfo Ducó, the home of Club Atlético Huracán, known simply as Huracán. The club are situated in the Parque Patricios neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina.  The stadium was opened 11 September 1949 and has a capacity of  48,314.
    Clayton_Stadiums_25.TIF
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